Big Bend Part 5: Laguna Meadow Trail

© 2025 Alamo Birding Services LLC

By Mary Beth Stowe

      Was ready to go well before dawn the next morning, as I planned to sit at the trailhead and see if any night birds would call. The Poorwill came through, but even better, the Elf Owl called from the cabin area, just like last time! I kept a “nocturnal” eBird list, and it was fun listening to everyone bringing in the dawn; Say’s Phoebe and Black-chinned Sparrow were new, but I think everything else was an old friend (like Canyon Towhee and Hepatic Tanager).


           At 6:25 we started up (and started a new eBird list), and following the routine of hiking for 20 and resting for five worked well, although I was somewhat discouraged at my speed (not sure why – I’ve always gone that slow uphill), wondering if we were ever gonna get there! A young gal who kinda looked like fellow guide Tiffany Kersten came trucking up behind me carrying a pack (and no walking stick) and breezed by – ah, youth! At one spot I had a lovely Blue Grosbeak against the sunlit mountain, and at the same spot was a close Ash-throated Flycatcher! Not everyone was that cooperative, however; at one point a Spotted Towhee did stay put for a video, but everyone else (like the Blue-gray Gnatcatcher, Acorn Woodpecker, and Mexican Jay) just didn’t stick around (although, had the stupid camera focused, I might have gotten a nice one of the jay). 

Two pictures of a bird sitting on a branch.

Blue Grosbeak (left) and Ash-throated Flycatcher (right)

Took some nice scenic shots with birdcall ambience just to say I got something (the best was the two hikers coming down the trail – perfect timing!), and the new year birds were definitely worth it (I think โ˜น), adding heard-only White-throated Swift, Hutton’s Vireo (that one did allow a brief glimpse), and Canyon Wren. At one resting spot another couple passed me by and made a joke about the scraping noises up the trail being made by a Mountain Lion๐Ÿ˜Š, but it turned out to be the Tiffany Look-alike who was working on improving the trail (man, more power to her working in that heat!) A bona fide Crissal Thrasher was singing away at one point (I had been hoping for them the whole trip down in the desert, but I suppose I shouldn’t have been surprised to get it up in the higher elevation after my experience with them in Arizona), but while he wouldn’t come out then, he (or another bird) did dart across the trail as I turned a corner, giving enough of a look for a positive ID but never to be seen again! โ˜น I was a little concerned as I ascended because some ominous clouds were starting to roll in, and that was the last place I wanted to be if another one of those “thunder monsoons” started to form!

A person is standing in the middle of a forest.

Meeting hikers coming down

But thankfully the clouds departed (I guess, as less clouds equals more heat), and the “Top of the World” spot was nice to see again! Got some cool video of the lodge area from way up there (and I thought I was next to Emory Peak, but I wasn’t…), and while not new for the trip, I was jazzed to hear another Black-capped Vireo up near Laguna Meadow! But the little grove where I had the Colima ten years ago just did not look the same, so I kept going up the stairs and recognized Laguna Meadow, so I knew that had to be it! But the place was dead (except for cicadas) and it was getting hot to boot! I pished a little just to see if anything would respond, and nothing did, so since it took me longer to get up there than I had planned, I turned around and started back.

A picture of a mountain range with a small village in the foreground

Chisos Basin from the “Top of the World” spot (oh, to be able to sprout wings and just glide back down)!

Two birds sitting on a tree branch with red eyes

Spotted Towhee

A dirt path going through a lush green forest.

The actual “Laguna Meadow”๏ปฟ

      That’s when it got scary, much to my surprise! I figured going downhill would be a breeze like it was last time, but I started feeling numbness in my hands (and even some semi-paralysis) to the extent that I thought it would be wise to call 911 (even though I hated to be the hiker that needed rescuing because they didn’t heed the warnings to be off the trails by 11:00)! Thankfully there was a signal up there, and they told me to find a shady spot to chill until they could get someone up there (they also asked me if I had any history of heart problems, which I don’t – except for the occasional palpitation that my doctor told me was normal. I also texted Keith and the crew asking for prayer (I was hoping that wasn’t a sign of heatstroke), but after resting for a good while, the symptoms calmed down. Thankfully “Tiffany” came bouncing down about that time, and I asked her to let the rescue guy know where I was, because I really couldn’t give them an exact location except that I was sure I was at least halfway down (had I been on the ball I could have told them that I was past the volcanic soil; that was pretty obvious). She actually offered to walk with me (and even carried my tripod), and that really helped (especially going through a shady spot). Lauren was her name, and was a volunteer from Connecticut, working part-time on trail work specifically. 

Interestingly we passed a lot of people going up the trail in that heat; she would always ask them if they had enough water (I thought I did, too, but apparently not), and I think secretly we both thought they were nuts! We were about to impose the same condemnation upon another hiker coming up when she realized it was her coworker Tyler, who was the one coming up to rescue me! ๐Ÿ˜Š He took my vitals, and apparently everything was okay, but we all had a great visit heading back to Chisos Basin (Lauren tried to talk me into taking that killer trail up to the cabins because it was shorter – uh, uh!)! Tyler was actually born in Tyler, Texas, and had escaped to California when that big winter storm hit here (Lauren was living at Panther Junction and said they got 18 inches of snow!!)! Close to the bottom I heard a Hepatic Tanager and Tyler spotted him, but I couldn’t before he took off – “The eyes of youth!” said I… ๐Ÿ˜Š Tyler said he was a birder (Lauren wasn’t, but mentioned that a hummingbird came to say hi while she was working on the trail ๐Ÿ˜Š), so I shared a little about the Colima Hunt from ten years ago, and all the great butters I had then, and how different it was this time, and Lauren was convinced that the long-term drought they’ve been having probably has something to do with that. I also mentioned how I loved their titmice here as they sounded so different than ours, and Lauren was so excited to find out what was making that morse code song! We also got to talking about Mountain Lions, and they told me how Cheryl (the volunteer ranger I had met before) was coming down this very trail by herself when she encountered two of them!! As she put it, thankfully they were more interested in each other than in her… โ˜น

A dirt hillside with trees and bushes on it

View of the trail we came up from on high๏ปฟ

      Up at the room Tyler took my vitals again and filled out some paperwork, including a legal form that said I refused an ambulance ride to Alpine (I gave him a look and said, “Did you see anything that maybe indicated that I need to do that??” Not really, but if there had been an issue, he said he would have pushed the ambulance more..)! Thanked them both profusely, recovered enough to get more water and ice for tomorrow, and the folks at registration were nice enough to fill out a dinner form for me when I called in! J Went ahead and got the steak, and while it wasn’t “walking to the table,” it was edible (and quite good, actually), so I saved half for the next day!

By Mary Beth Stowe July 30, 2025
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By Mary Beth Stowe June 16, 2025
Started out pre-dawn the next morning, adding a beent ing Common Nighthawk to the trip list right in the parking lot! There wasn’t a hint of any utility work, so I found The Willows fine, only it was as I suspected: a fancy residential area with a few trees that looked good as a migrant trap. No migrants around today (it was already in the 80s) so I found the hotspot designated as the area between Port Aransas and the state park, and just covered that stretch by stopping every half mile and scanning for falcons. There were still no occupants at the nesting platforms, but one stop did have a White-tailed Hawk perched on a gas well! That’s when I discovered (presumably) that I had left the foot for the cameras at the hotel, so I went blasting back (but not before stopping for a pair of Mottled Ducks and Black-necked Stilts), got back inside, and couldn’t find a trace. The nice front desk gal said she’d let me know if housekeeping found anything, but I figured it had to be buried somewhere ! And while checking the towel that I use to wrap The Monster, there it was, on the body of the camera instead of on the lens, where I usually put it! I felt so dumb – I told the gal I had found it, so we were both relieved, but I felt like I had wasted a half hour by coming back. But I had to remind myself that God’s timing is perfect, and everything is for a reason, even if it isn’t obvious at first!
By Mary Beth Stowe June 9, 2025
When I realized I wanted to hit The Willows first (some good migrants had been seen there the day before), I was curious to see what direction Siri would take me, as it obviously would be different than my written directions that would take me directly to the state park. But as always, she wanted to take me into the heart of Houston rush hour traffic, but an alternate route appeared to zigzag towards Galveston, so I took that, only she kept trying to get me to take a totally different route!! Needless to say I got terribly turned around and ended up going a back way back to the tollway (and actually went through pretty nice suburban area – I got to thinking that I wouldn’t mind living there so long as I didn’t have to get on the freeway), and from there she took us the same way we came up until it was time to veer off towards Corpus, where we went through some hair-raising construction but finally made it safely to Padre Island! I wanted to head straight to the Willows (she was initially gonna bring us in from the north, but I guess she abandoned that idea), but stopped first at the state park to use the potties and make a sandwich. On the way up I saw the two Aplomado nesting platforms, and thought for sure I saw some birds in there, but headed on to the Willows with the idea of checking them more closely on the way back, only ran into some “Be Prepared to Stop” traffic (and they really meant it this time, too), so rather than fight that we decided to turn around and check out the beach access we had just driven by.
By Mary Beth Stowe May 27, 2025
It was indeed raining the next morning (and really blowing the night before), so I actually got to have the "real" breakfast before settling down to work on file processing! The initial forecast was heavy rain up till 11:00, but after an hour that drastically changed, and by 8:00 it had cleared up enough (with no heavy rain thereafter) to head on up to Garrett Road! Again, the beltway was a breeze, and after getting off on Garrett I quick-like got some ice (it melts in a hurry) and then headed down to the "boat ramp". It really wasn't a "boat ramp", but rather a huge parking area abutting a cypress swamp that rivaled anything in Florida — no wonder the Limpkins like it! I parked at the far end and set up shop (already several fishermen were at the other end, close to the road), and was wondering what all these red splotches on the cypress trunks were when it dawned on me (upon closer inspection) that they were the Apple Snail eggs! Again, no wonder the Limpkins like this place! And I didn't have to wait long, either: shortly one came sailing in, yelling as he did so, and landed right on the edge of the parking area! Another one came in shortly thereafter and chased the first one, and he was practically at my feet! Kay had confirmed where the babies had been, but when I went over to check, I couldn't find any — I suspect they're fledged by now. Besides the Limpkins (which really performed well, both on top of trees and close by) I was able to film a female Red-winged Blackbirds on the nest (and later poking around the ground with a missing foot), plus a pair of Great-tailed Grackles strutting around the joint. The first Neotropic Cormorant of the trip flew overhead, and somewhere what I suspected was a Great Blue Heron nest was hidden, as I could hear babies squawking. [Update: They may have actually been Cattle Egrets, as while in the process of creating video grabs, I caught a couple sailing by in the background of one of the Limpkin videos...] A Green and calico Little Blue Heron also came wheeling in, but closer to the road, and I didn't want to get too far away from the car. A ranger made the rounds with a bucket, picking up trash, and we got to talking about the Limpkins, which were "all over the place" now, according to him, and reported that birders all the way from Austin came in to see them (and a lot further than that, I'm sure, when they were first reported)! Purple Gallinules called but wouldn't come out, of course, and after about an hour a guy pulled up and got on his phone, so I figured it was time to move on. After I packed up I jokingly said to him, "Your turn!" which got a chuckle, and it did indeed look like he was preparing to fish right where I was!
By Mary Beth Stowe May 20, 2025
The Lord was merciful the next morning and it wasn’t raining! Got packed up, swiped a couple of sausages from the breakfast, and headed out to the park. Got in earlier than yesterday, and right away a Painted Bunting was singing right next to the car! Unfortunately it was still too dark to take video, but you could just barely make out his colors! The first missed trail I wanted to cover was the Pilant Slough Trail (kept wanting to call it Pliant Slough), but wanted to crawl along that cypress swamp just in case another Limpkin showed up! Well, if someone didn’t mind counting a heard-only bird, there were plenty of them wailing away, only way back there! In fact, I could even see a private home back there, and five’ll get you ten that that was the place the owner was letting people in to see the birds when they first started showing up! While I was making audio recordings a couple of feral pigs snorted and ran away on the other side of the road, so that got me back to the car in a hurry! Shortly came across a “murder of crows” that was giving something fits, so I pulled over to see if I could spot what they were mobbing, and it was a Bobcat up in a tree! He stayed put for video, too! I thought that was pretty neat! ๏ปฟ
Two trees are standing in the middle of a grassy field.
By Mary Beth Stowe September 28, 2024
Got ready to go the next morning a little earlier than planned, so went ahead and headed over to the park, thankful that the gate was open just like the guy said! I went straight to 40 Acre Lake and took the Powershot down to the pier, but didn’t stay long as I realized I really needed to be using The Monster (i.e. Sony with the Big Lens) in this situation (it was still kinda dusky, even after sunrise, and it handles low-light situations much better than the Powershot). I ended up spending over an hour there as it was quite active: tons of Little Blue Herons (including many transitioning birds, called “calicos”), Common Gallinules, a young Great Blue, and even a pair of Purple Gallinules taking a bath (but on the other side of the lake)! Some Anhingas were swimming with just their head and necks above the surface (hence the name “snake-bird”), so that was fun to shoot! A Pied-billed Grebe was new for the trip (as was a Tricolored Heron that kept hiding). Got some artsy shots of Great Egrets and spoonbills across the lake, and another Anhinga had landed on the railing to dry his wings, and he was pretty dilapidated! I didn’t wanna bother him (it was obvious he was agitated when I started getting closer), but a Plegadis ibis wheeled in that had a gray face and dark eye, and I would think that this time of year any Whiteface would have a red eye! Unfortunately so long as I didn’t have Internet access I couldn’t upload a picture to eBird, so documentation would have to wait until I got to the Holiday Inn (if I could get on their Wi-Fi…). [Update: I could, so I submitted the photos – more on that story later…] White Ibis were out the yin yang, and what I thought were a mom and kid Boat-tailed Grackle came by (as the male was singing somewhere), but they turned out to be Great-tails after I reviewed the video. A Mississippi Kite circled over the trees, but the best video op was a roaring Alligator! That was great! The Four-spotted Pennants (a type of dragonfly) on the way out were anti-climactic! Totally forgot to film the Barn Swallow nest on the way out, though… โ˜น I did hear some chickadees on the way out, so I wheeled back in and tried to get some video out the car window!
A tree in a park with spanish moss hanging from it
By Mary Beth Stowe September 21, 2024
As usual, woke up early so got going early after the morning routine; added Golden-fronted Woodpecker to the list while packing the car (among other things we’ll probably pick up later). Another “write-in” bird heading north on US 77 was a Harris’ Hawk! ๏ปฟ We stopped at the Sarita rest stop, picking up a Hooded Oriole for the trip, but boy, did it look nasty up ahead!! I wish I had been able to take a picture on the fly, because you talk about storm-chasing: once under it, it was black as night, with some terrific lightning displays! But then the rain started, and by Riviera it was zero visibility, so I just pulled into a Pizza Hut (or some such joint) parking lot to wait it out for a while. A Flood Warning came over the phone, and looking at the radar, we were right in the middle of a big red blob (I kept trying to capture a picture of the thing and was turning the phone off by mistake, so by the time I did get a picture the Red Blob had moved north a bit so the effect wasn’t the same)! Continued on after a few minutes, and while it let up, it didn’t really stop until the next stop at Refugio. We got a breakfast croissant at Burger King, then continued north. Filled up at El Campo (ended up going around the Very Long Block for that one), where a homeless guy opened the door for me! Headed on to Brazos Bend, where there was no hint of the threatened rain! Jumped out at the entrance to shoot the requisite sign, and had a Carolina Wren actually in view for a second while waiting to check in! I had some questions, so the ranger had me park and walk in where he gave me a map and showed me where the Limpkins usually show up; unfortunately it was as someone else had mentioned, and it was an almost three mile one-way hike along the Live Oak Trail to get to the habitat! He also suggested a couple of spots for Purple Gallinules, and said that the gate opens around 6:15, so that was perfect! Back at the car I remembered the other question I wanted to ask and went running back: do they have feeders? Nope – all natural here, she said!
A dirt road in the middle of a desert with mountains in the background
By Mary Beth Stowe September 16, 2024
And what a final day! It was another cold but (thankfully) windless morning, and the drive to Brackettville in the dark was (again thankfully) uneventful. We made a potty stop there, picking up a singing Western Kingbird for the trip, and by that time it was getting light enough so that the last leg to Kickapoo Cavern on FM 674 was delightful – I’d love to be able to survey that road, as there was lots of good Edwards Plateau habitat and plenty of places to pull over. Did see a couple of ravens, but according to eBird both could occur, so I let them go. And am I thankful I downloaded the eBird checklist the night before, because there was no signal once I got to the park! (Although I had an initial shock when I ran the day list and only got four species – needed to change the date… ๐Ÿ˜Š) After taking the obligatory entrance sign picture, we just crawled along, and were rewarded with a friendly Golden-cheeked Warbler, and later a Rufous-crowned Sparrow (he wasn’t friendly – just happened to be on my side of the road and was nice enough to stay put)! A Scissor-tailed Flycatcher on a wire sallied out and caught a big bug, and although the singing Canyon Wren wasn’t new for the trip, the singing Scott’s Oriole was! The normal songsters seemed to be just Cardinals, Bell’s Vireos, and Bewick’s Wrens.
A river runs through a lush green forest with mountains in the background.
By Mary Beth Stowe September 7, 2024
Headed out in the black, deciding to park at the walk-in camping lot to see in the dawn. And what a morning! It was freezing cold (around 37 degrees; Heppy – my Subaru – even warned me that the roads could be icy), but not a speck of wind, and the night sky was glorious! (There was a sign in the campground saying this was a Dark Sky Park or something like that…) Got to see a couple of meteors, and even a satellite (or the Space Station)! ๐Ÿ˜Š Once again, the Cardinals had to voice their dominance as the first birds up (even before it was lightening in the east), but nothing in the way of night birds vocalized. I did hear this weird barking that I suspected was one of the Axis Deer, so I thought I’d have some fun and see what Merlin said! Interestingly, he thought it was an Inca Dove (no way), but he also said he picked up a Poorwill! I did briefly hear something that sounded like one poor-will phrase, but since it didn’t keep going (as they usually do), I didn’t count it. Walked around the lot trying to keep warm, and in the twilight a Great Horned Owl glided low over my head (and it was light enough to see the details of his face without the bins ๐Ÿ˜Š)! Also heard Turkeys gobbling in the distance, and as it got lighter a singing Yellow-breasted Chat (that Merlin didn’t recognize, interestingly) was new for the trip, and that weird whistling that I heard yesterday that sounded like a funky Black-capped Chickadee and wrote it off as an oddball Field Sparrow or something suddenly clicked: it was the reported White-throated Sparrow! He gave great recording ops but never came out for a view, either there or in the blind.