Southeast Arizona Adventure Part 10 - Patagonia

© 2025 Alamo Birding Services LLC

By Mary Beth Stowe

      Next day I made a last minute decision to go to the Patagonia Rest Stop first because I figured the Rose-throated Becard would be vocalizing first thing, and therefore easier to bag. Didn’t take long to get there, so I parked by the cliff until sunrise (in case the Five-striped Sparrow decided to show again), and had the usual suspects, along with a beeping Canyon Wren. Then I parked at the north end and just gave it some time; as I wandered across the street I noticed that the trail down into the woodland was overgrown, so maybe people just aren’t using that any more (fine by me, as I always felt creepy down there). Abert’s Towhees were singing away as were chats and Yellow Warblers, but after a while I heard the characteristic wheezy song of the becard, and there they were, right across the street! They kept flying over my head, and one finally perched right overhead; tried to get video, but I think it’ll be good only for the audio (which thankfully came out great).

           Patagonia State Park was next; the guy at the entrance booth wasn’t there when I wheeled in, so made plans to pay on my way out. The place is always good for odes, but this time almost everything I could zoom in on was a Blue Dasher, except for a couple of Blue-eyed/Arroyo Darners that wouldn’t land (naturally). A quick stop at this big parking area added a very confiding Swainson’s Hawk on a pole, and a Bewick’s Wren that had me fooled into thinking it was a Western Tanager!  The cabins were new since I was there last, and that loop landed right at the trailhead. They also had a new feeding area that was set up like a grandstand, but nothing was filled. It gave you a great view of the lake, though!

A sign for a state park with mountains in the background

Requisite entrance sign to the park

A bird is sitting on a wooden post next to a path.

Swainson's Hawk (left), and Trail from the parking lot down to the Birding Area

      I was a little concerned about the Birding Trail, because I remember it being quite the climb down and back, but it was fine as it was all made up of good stairs. Halfway down is a bench I don’t remember (it said “RAIL” and I was wondering if it had been taken from an old railing or something, but the next bench was labeled “YELLOWTHROAT” with a picture of said bird, so I realized they were referring to the Sora picture…), which was a great place to sit and watch the lake; flushed a Black-crowned Night Heron when I arrived, and across the way was a Great Blue and a couple of Coots. Down at the bottom were all the dashers, and bird highlights included a performing Yellow-breasted Chat in the sun, hiding Phainopeplas and Bell’s Vireos, another tyrannulet, and a Song Sparrow I managed to get backlit video of. At another rest a Yellow-billed Cuckoo called and then flew over, and at one little opening a mob of Coots went by, along with several Mexican Ducks (actually, some could have been bona fide Mallards, as the males would be in eclipse plumage by now, and one looked like it had the typical Mallard rear end). On the way up took another look at the lake from the overview, and added the requisite Neotropic Cormorant (although it was a very washed-out bird).

A lake surrounded by tall grass and trees with mountains in the background

Patagonia Lake from the bottom of the Birding Trail

A path in the middle of a forest surrounded by trees and grass.

Trail within the woods

A dragonfly is sitting on a leaf and a dragonfly is sitting on a branch.

Blue Dasher (female left, male right)

A bird with a yellow head is perched on a tree branch

Yellow-breasted Chat

      I wish I could have filmed one of the grackles vocalizing, as they make that same funny duit-duit-duit sound the California birds make! As it was, I got a juvie still begging, a male dismantling a beetle, and a pretty male House Sparrow (I told Keith not to laugh at me 😊). There really wasn’t much else around except a Curve-billed Thrasher making like a Robin on the ground, and I was tired already from all the climbing, so decided to head out, only the exit dumped me way up from the entrance booth! So rather than trying to find the thing, I just headed out and bagged a Rufous-winged Sparrow singing out in the open! 😊

A lake with a mountain in the background and trees on the shore.

Lake Patagonia from the day use area

Two birds are perched on top of a wooden post.

Mrs. Grackle’s baby is bigger than she is, and still begging!

A couple of birds sitting on top of a wooden post

While the kid says, “Aw, c’mon, Mom!”, she checks her escape route...

Two birds are perched on a tree branch.

This male House Sparrow has a big bib; according to some authorities, that means he’s the top dog!

Headed back to Patagonia to do Harshaw Creek Road, and that was a lovely drive; early on a male Vermilion Flycatcher flew up to a wire. No Montezuma Quail (I don’t even think I heard any last year, but my friend Norma and crew, who were there at the same time I was, had one out the window!) but was able to film a Rufous-crowned Sparrow that came in to pishing, and spooked a little grasshopper when I got out at one stop that was quite distinctive; I made it fly so I could see the color of its wings (red), and when I pulled my make-shift book out at the hotel there was a perfect match: Arroyo Grasshopper! Couldn’t get a singing thrasher to come out, but when a Curve-billed called across the way, I’m assuming that’s what it was until proven otherwise… A Western Wood Pewee sat up on a snag and called, as well as a Cassin’s Kingbird, but the star of the show was a calling Thick-billed Kingbird up on the hill – had he not done his pow-WEET!, I never would have noticed him! Near the end of the road a female/young Blue Grosbeak posed on a fence.

A grassy field with trees and a mountain in the background

Harshaw Creek Road

Three pictures of birds sitting on a tree branch

L-R:  Rufous-crowned Sparrow, Cassin's Kingbird, Thick-billed Kingbird

A picture of a grasshopper and a picture of a bird perched on a barbed wire fence.

L:  Arroyo Grasshopper; R: Female Blue Grosbeak

After I got done with that, the plan was to road-bird Harshaw Road, but I was a little nervous about the building monsoons. Turns out Harshaw Road is paved most of the way, so we headed on up, but it shortly started spitting, so that was our cue to turn back (rain in and of itself isn’t a big deal, but around here that can turn into a flash flood and block your passage real quick). So since it wasn’t even noon yet we decided to check out Pena Blanca Lake and get that out of the way (seeing as that road is paved, too). When we passed the state park, my conscience was bothering me 😊, so we swung in to suck up and pay the rather steep day use fee. I was kinda hoping the guy would give me a pass seeing as I was in and out (probably) before the booth was open, but he didn’t; in fact, I think it was the same guy who was making the rounds on his motorized cart earlier! I was kinda laughing about that on the way out, but right there by the side was a lovely Gray Hawk that was just primping away! Guess that was my “jewel” for doing the right thing!

A dirt road going through a forest with clouds in the sky

Gathering storm

Three pictures of a bird sitting on a tree branch

Primping Gray Hawk back at the state park

Anyway, Siri took us the back way to Ruby Road, which was a very scenic drive down South River Road. Construction at the freeway was horrible, but we got through, and once at the area I noticed that dirt road that goes to a wonderful overlook that I took last time, so down we went, but we didn’t get very far as there was a big chasm in the road! Thankfully we had enough room to turn around (very carefully) and head towards the paved part. Had another Gray Hawk come tearing in for video, and what I thought was a Bell’s Vireo actually turned out to be a Varied Bunting (hard to tell when it’s backlit sometimes)! The flowering bushes were loaded not with butterflies, but day-flying moths (the only ones I could ID were tons of Indomitable Graphics and, according to the book, Deduced Graphic! Went up to Upper Thumb to use the restroom, but a big monsoon (thunder and all) was bearing down (with one to the south as well), so we figured it was time to get out of there.

A lush green hillside with pink flowers in the foreground and mountains in the background

Pena Blanca Lake SRA

A moth is sitting on a branch next to a flower.

Deduced (left) & Indomitable Graphics

And boy, what a mess coming into Nogales! (In retrospect I shoulda gone straight to the hotel after Harshaw – I bet they would have let me check in early considering the weather…) That’s when the deluge started, and again at the construction, there was a backup to beat all! I thought I was getting on southbound I-19, but I had actually gotten on the frontage road, and that’s where the traffic was coming from (not sure why as it wasn’t anywhere near rush hour)! Siri was going nuts until she finally directed me to several back roads (and I truly was concerned about flooding along some of those) and put me on a surface street that really did have some flooding issues! Talk about the parting of the Red Sea when we went through! But she ended up taking us the back way to the little complex where all the hotels are, so we checked in fine (a little early, but that was okay), then gassed and iced up. But it was raining pretty hard and I got pretty soaked arranging the cooler, so donned that poncho I had taken to Costa Rica that worked like a charm, and it did its job this time, too, only I had to make several trips to the room (and wade through a small lake as well), and with the lightning firing off all around you, that was a trip! Then I cut myself on the Cup-o-Noodles box ☹, so it definitely was “one of those days”, but I was very glad to get to the room (which is lovely – second floor with a great view of the construction across the street 😊)! Did some calculating, as I was truly concerned about the condition of Ruby Road, plus I wasn’t sure I’d pick up anything new along there (general targets are Golden Eagle and the Monty), so we decided to do Montosa Canyon tomorrow and get that sparrow filmed (hopefully)!

By Mary Beth Stowe June 9, 2025
When I realized I wanted to hit The Willows first (some good migrants had been seen there the day before), I was curious to see what direction Siri would take me, as it obviously would be different than my written directions that would take me directly to the state park. But as always, she wanted to take me into the heart of Houston rush hour traffic, but an alternate route appeared to zigzag towards Galveston, so I took that, only she kept trying to get me to take a totally different route!! Needless to say I got terribly turned around and ended up going a back way back to the tollway (and actually went through pretty nice suburban area – I got to thinking that I wouldn’t mind living there so long as I didn’t have to get on the freeway), and from there she took us the same way we came up until it was time to veer off towards Corpus, where we went through some hair-raising construction but finally made it safely to Padre Island! I wanted to head straight to the Willows (she was initially gonna bring us in from the north, but I guess she abandoned that idea), but stopped first at the state park to use the potties and make a sandwich. On the way up I saw the two Aplomado nesting platforms, and thought for sure I saw some birds in there, but headed on to the Willows with the idea of checking them more closely on the way back, only ran into some “Be Prepared to Stop” traffic (and they really meant it this time, too), so rather than fight that we decided to turn around and check out the beach access we had just driven by.
By Mary Beth Stowe May 27, 2025
It was indeed raining the next morning (and really blowing the night before), so I actually got to have the "real" breakfast before settling down to work on file processing! The initial forecast was heavy rain up till 11:00, but after an hour that drastically changed, and by 8:00 it had cleared up enough (with no heavy rain thereafter) to head on up to Garrett Road! Again, the beltway was a breeze, and after getting off on Garrett I quick-like got some ice (it melts in a hurry) and then headed down to the "boat ramp". It really wasn't a "boat ramp", but rather a huge parking area abutting a cypress swamp that rivaled anything in Florida — no wonder the Limpkins like it! I parked at the far end and set up shop (already several fishermen were at the other end, close to the road), and was wondering what all these red splotches on the cypress trunks were when it dawned on me (upon closer inspection) that they were the Apple Snail eggs! Again, no wonder the Limpkins like this place! And I didn't have to wait long, either: shortly one came sailing in, yelling as he did so, and landed right on the edge of the parking area! Another one came in shortly thereafter and chased the first one, and he was practically at my feet! Kay had confirmed where the babies had been, but when I went over to check, I couldn't find any — I suspect they're fledged by now. Besides the Limpkins (which really performed well, both on top of trees and close by) I was able to film a female Red-winged Blackbirds on the nest (and later poking around the ground with a missing foot), plus a pair of Great-tailed Grackles strutting around the joint. The first Neotropic Cormorant of the trip flew overhead, and somewhere what I suspected was a Great Blue Heron nest was hidden, as I could hear babies squawking. [Update: They may have actually been Cattle Egrets, as while in the process of creating video grabs, I caught a couple sailing by in the background of one of the Limpkin videos...] A Green and calico Little Blue Heron also came wheeling in, but closer to the road, and I didn't want to get too far away from the car. A ranger made the rounds with a bucket, picking up trash, and we got to talking about the Limpkins, which were "all over the place" now, according to him, and reported that birders all the way from Austin came in to see them (and a lot further than that, I'm sure, when they were first reported)! Purple Gallinules called but wouldn't come out, of course, and after about an hour a guy pulled up and got on his phone, so I figured it was time to move on. After I packed up I jokingly said to him, "Your turn!" which got a chuckle, and it did indeed look like he was preparing to fish right where I was!
By Mary Beth Stowe May 20, 2025
The Lord was merciful the next morning and it wasn’t raining! Got packed up, swiped a couple of sausages from the breakfast, and headed out to the park. Got in earlier than yesterday, and right away a Painted Bunting was singing right next to the car! Unfortunately it was still too dark to take video, but you could just barely make out his colors! The first missed trail I wanted to cover was the Pilant Slough Trail (kept wanting to call it Pliant Slough), but wanted to crawl along that cypress swamp just in case another Limpkin showed up! Well, if someone didn’t mind counting a heard-only bird, there were plenty of them wailing away, only way back there! In fact, I could even see a private home back there, and five’ll get you ten that that was the place the owner was letting people in to see the birds when they first started showing up! While I was making audio recordings a couple of feral pigs snorted and ran away on the other side of the road, so that got me back to the car in a hurry! Shortly came across a “murder of crows” that was giving something fits, so I pulled over to see if I could spot what they were mobbing, and it was a Bobcat up in a tree! He stayed put for video, too! I thought that was pretty neat! 
Two trees are standing in the middle of a grassy field.
By Mary Beth Stowe September 28, 2024
Got ready to go the next morning a little earlier than planned, so went ahead and headed over to the park, thankful that the gate was open just like the guy said! I went straight to 40 Acre Lake and took the Powershot down to the pier, but didn’t stay long as I realized I really needed to be using The Monster (i.e. Sony with the Big Lens) in this situation (it was still kinda dusky, even after sunrise, and it handles low-light situations much better than the Powershot). I ended up spending over an hour there as it was quite active: tons of Little Blue Herons (including many transitioning birds, called “calicos”), Common Gallinules, a young Great Blue, and even a pair of Purple Gallinules taking a bath (but on the other side of the lake)! Some Anhingas were swimming with just their head and necks above the surface (hence the name “snake-bird”), so that was fun to shoot! A Pied-billed Grebe was new for the trip (as was a Tricolored Heron that kept hiding). Got some artsy shots of Great Egrets and spoonbills across the lake, and another Anhinga had landed on the railing to dry his wings, and he was pretty dilapidated! I didn’t wanna bother him (it was obvious he was agitated when I started getting closer), but a Plegadis ibis wheeled in that had a gray face and dark eye, and I would think that this time of year any Whiteface would have a red eye! Unfortunately so long as I didn’t have Internet access I couldn’t upload a picture to eBird, so documentation would have to wait until I got to the Holiday Inn (if I could get on their Wi-Fi…). [Update: I could, so I submitted the photos – more on that story later…] White Ibis were out the yin yang, and what I thought were a mom and kid Boat-tailed Grackle came by (as the male was singing somewhere), but they turned out to be Great-tails after I reviewed the video. A Mississippi Kite circled over the trees, but the best video op was a roaring Alligator! That was great! The Four-spotted Pennants (a type of dragonfly) on the way out were anti-climactic! Totally forgot to film the Barn Swallow nest on the way out, though… ☹ I did hear some chickadees on the way out, so I wheeled back in and tried to get some video out the car window!
A tree in a park with spanish moss hanging from it
By Mary Beth Stowe September 21, 2024
As usual, woke up early so got going early after the morning routine; added Golden-fronted Woodpecker to the list while packing the car (among other things we’ll probably pick up later). Another “write-in” bird heading north on US 77 was a Harris’ Hawk!  We stopped at the Sarita rest stop, picking up a Hooded Oriole for the trip, but boy, did it look nasty up ahead!! I wish I had been able to take a picture on the fly, because you talk about storm-chasing: once under it, it was black as night, with some terrific lightning displays! But then the rain started, and by Riviera it was zero visibility, so I just pulled into a Pizza Hut (or some such joint) parking lot to wait it out for a while. A Flood Warning came over the phone, and looking at the radar, we were right in the middle of a big red blob (I kept trying to capture a picture of the thing and was turning the phone off by mistake, so by the time I did get a picture the Red Blob had moved north a bit so the effect wasn’t the same)! Continued on after a few minutes, and while it let up, it didn’t really stop until the next stop at Refugio. We got a breakfast croissant at Burger King, then continued north. Filled up at El Campo (ended up going around the Very Long Block for that one), where a homeless guy opened the door for me! Headed on to Brazos Bend, where there was no hint of the threatened rain! Jumped out at the entrance to shoot the requisite sign, and had a Carolina Wren actually in view for a second while waiting to check in! I had some questions, so the ranger had me park and walk in where he gave me a map and showed me where the Limpkins usually show up; unfortunately it was as someone else had mentioned, and it was an almost three mile one-way hike along the Live Oak Trail to get to the habitat! He also suggested a couple of spots for Purple Gallinules, and said that the gate opens around 6:15, so that was perfect! Back at the car I remembered the other question I wanted to ask and went running back: do they have feeders? Nope – all natural here, she said!
A dirt road in the middle of a desert with mountains in the background
By Mary Beth Stowe September 16, 2024
And what a final day! It was another cold but (thankfully) windless morning, and the drive to Brackettville in the dark was (again thankfully) uneventful. We made a potty stop there, picking up a singing Western Kingbird for the trip, and by that time it was getting light enough so that the last leg to Kickapoo Cavern on FM 674 was delightful – I’d love to be able to survey that road, as there was lots of good Edwards Plateau habitat and plenty of places to pull over. Did see a couple of ravens, but according to eBird both could occur, so I let them go. And am I thankful I downloaded the eBird checklist the night before, because there was no signal once I got to the park! (Although I had an initial shock when I ran the day list and only got four species – needed to change the date… 😊) After taking the obligatory entrance sign picture, we just crawled along, and were rewarded with a friendly Golden-cheeked Warbler, and later a Rufous-crowned Sparrow (he wasn’t friendly – just happened to be on my side of the road and was nice enough to stay put)! A Scissor-tailed Flycatcher on a wire sallied out and caught a big bug, and although the singing Canyon Wren wasn’t new for the trip, the singing Scott’s Oriole was! The normal songsters seemed to be just Cardinals, Bell’s Vireos, and Bewick’s Wrens.
A river runs through a lush green forest with mountains in the background.
By Mary Beth Stowe September 7, 2024
Headed out in the black, deciding to park at the walk-in camping lot to see in the dawn. And what a morning! It was freezing cold (around 37 degrees; Heppy – my Subaru – even warned me that the roads could be icy), but not a speck of wind, and the night sky was glorious! (There was a sign in the campground saying this was a Dark Sky Park or something like that…) Got to see a couple of meteors, and even a satellite (or the Space Station)! 😊 Once again, the Cardinals had to voice their dominance as the first birds up (even before it was lightening in the east), but nothing in the way of night birds vocalized. I did hear this weird barking that I suspected was one of the Axis Deer, so I thought I’d have some fun and see what Merlin said! Interestingly, he thought it was an Inca Dove (no way), but he also said he picked up a Poorwill! I did briefly hear something that sounded like one poor-will phrase, but since it didn’t keep going (as they usually do), I didn’t count it. Walked around the lot trying to keep warm, and in the twilight a Great Horned Owl glided low over my head (and it was light enough to see the details of his face without the bins 😊)! Also heard Turkeys gobbling in the distance, and as it got lighter a singing Yellow-breasted Chat (that Merlin didn’t recognize, interestingly) was new for the trip, and that weird whistling that I heard yesterday that sounded like a funky Black-capped Chickadee and wrote it off as an oddball Field Sparrow or something suddenly clicked: it was the reported White-throated Sparrow! He gave great recording ops but never came out for a view, either there or in the blind.
A small bird is standing next to a large rock.
By Keith Hackland September 2, 2024
Packed up after the morning routine (funny how I’ve consistently woken up before the alarm goes off) and made it to Junction without clobbering any deer! 😊 (The wind was horrendous, though; I was concerned about all those big rigs zipping along at 70 MPH!) Siri sent me the back way, which I think was new, and was shocked to discover major road work going on in the park – I couldn’t even pull over on my favorite perch at the top of the hill! ☹ (Come to find out they were building a new Visitor’s Center…) So I pulled over as soon as I felt it was safe, and like the first morning at Kerr, I think the wind kept me from hearing much of anything (although, as normal, the Cardinals were the first ones to wake up). I did pick up a Black-capped Vireo at the first hard left, and heard a Golden-cheeked Warbler near Lora’s Blind (but I think that might have been after sunrise – it all blends together…). Crawled around the campground picking up several Bell’s Vireos and spooked three Axis Deer, and by the time I arrived at the big parking lot outside the campground my Sunrise Alarm went off, so decided to head back to Lora’s Blind first before the construction crew got going! That was a good plan, and my concerns about the blinds being packed with people were unfounded, as, out of all four blinds, only two other couples showed up the whole time (and I spent an hour in each one)! One couple remembered me from San Diego (and that’s always embarrassing when you don’t remember them ☹) and were now RVing all over the country, and the other couple were new birders from San Benito (another Lower Rio Grande Valley town)! (I put in a plug for Arroyo Colorado Audubon… 😊)  Anyway, even before the food was put out, Lora’s Blind was hopping with activity: the main players were White-crowned Sparrows of all ages and in various degrees of molt (it was funny to see beat up birds next to immaculately fresh ones), and both species of towhees came in as well (although the Spotted was consistently shy). Titmice were very cooperative, and I was thrilled to see a Hermit Thrush come in to the water feature! Cardinals were all over the place, Lincoln’s Sparrows were plentiful, and one Lark Sparrow came in.
A dirt road going through a field with trees on both sides
By Mary Beth Stowe August 24, 2024
Didn’t wake up quite as early as the day before, but still got to Bobcat Meadows well before dawn. This time it was a lovely morning, with no wind, and at the second or third stop, sure enough, a Poorwill was singing in the distance! (Turkeys were gobbling as well…) Barbara texted me in the middle of all this with a question about the Harris’ Hawk (turns out I had forgotten to add the Swainson’s Hawk to the eBird list, and forgot to add that and the Harris’ to the trip list), so I got to tell her that I had just gotten the Poorwill! J The normal dawn chorus characters started tuning up as it got lighter, but nothing new for the trip. At sunrise I swung over to the main road just to make sure they really were having a turkey hunt, and therefore the place was closed (they were), so I headed back to Bobcat Meadows and carried out the following strategy: stop every tenth of a mile, drag The Monster out, and wait five minutes to see what shows! Worked fine until the second or third stop when two Black-capped Vireos were really going at it in this bush in front of me; you’d think they’d be visible, but no way! But I hung in there with them, and they eventually shot down to a leafless bush down the incline where they were clearly visible chasing each other around the bush, and it became apparent that there was a third bird (which turned out to be the female, which was the main bird I was able to shoot; her hubby was too busy chasing his rival J)! It wasn’t the greatest, mainly because of the distance and trying to keep the silly things in focus as they dashed in and out between the branches, but at least we got something!
A man walking down a road with trees in the background
By Mary Beth Stowe August 10, 2024
I felt like a kid on Christmas morning the next day, so I did the morning routine unhurriedly because I got up uber early, and got over to Bobcat Meadows well before dawn; the wind concerned me, but there were no night birds at all, and as the sky lightened we had the usual suspects, including the song-battling Black-capped Vireos. I rushed out of there in time to meet Barbara at the main gate, which was closed when I first checked, but open now! We had a great reunion, and she had quite the list while she was waiting for me (she, too, felt like a kid on Christmas morning and got there around seven, when the gate was open)! I had heard a chickadee coming in, and Inca Doves at the station, but for some reason she didn’t hear the Canyon Wren I heard (but she got it later). We piled into Heppy and started crawling, and it was good to catch up during the course of the day! It all blended together since we covered both roads; Barbara spotted Lark Sparrows right away on the main road, a Vermilion Flycatcher “butterflied” overhead, and a Swainson’s Hawk circled in the distance. We heard both the Goldencheeks and the Blackcaps right away, but the former was the only one to cooperate by sitting on the tippy top of a tree! (Barbara circled around a tree a Blackcap was singing in to try and “herd” him my way…) We found another Goldencheek pair chasing each other, and Barbara got terrific shots with her new Sony, but I really had a hard time getting mine on the bird and then in focus, so that made me decide to get a Powershot video first, and then drag out The Monster if the bird was still being cooperative! At that same spot we had a thooking Hermit Thrush, and we actually did have a lot of Blackcaps, but they would only allow fleeting glimpses as they shot from tree to tree.
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